Marla's Journal 06/10/2005 - 19:04PM
Location: United Kingdom
On Our Way Home
As you read this we this we are either on the airplane or at home. Yes, already.

Let me backtrack a bit to France, Belgium and London:

The train from Barcelona pulled into the Montpelier, France, station. Another country. And still no stamp in our passports. That’s the saddest part of traveling through Europe. No borders. No stamps.

Clunk. Clunk. Clunk.Clunk Clunk. You always know when the Pendergrasts alight from the train.

I’m ready to speak French. Off to find the rental car desk down past the tracks, in the rain, to the hinterlands. Paper work completed. And the rental car clerk has no idea what number stall the car in is. Robin and Tricia walk around the parking lot in the rain looking for the car as I am on Luggage Patrol. “Do not leave luggage unattended. If you find any suspicious luggage, please report it to the security.” We’ve not been reported once, at least to our knowledge. Car found except, why is there always a caveat? The car has an automatic remote … no key. Okey dokey, nokey. Now what? Tricia (the non-driver) figures out how it works probably from watching Star Wars. Robin drives the car around front and the Luggage is loaded. We drive through the lot and need to back out. (Robin can’t find reverse. It’s not located on the stick shift handle at top-right location…or is it?) We keep going forward pretty close to the train tracks. Another caveat. You have to lift UP on the stick shift as you put it in gear. I had to laugh. And laugh. I could not have done any better myself, you see, because not only would I have not found reverse, I would have burnt out the clutch at the same time. The giggles wouldn’t stop. Actually the giggles couldn’t stop. Tricia and I tried, really. Robin was neither amused nor entertained.

We reach St. Hillaire D’Ozilahn and found a closed-up village of 30 buildings. That is where we are staying? Robin is beginning to panic. I, however, love the charm of nothingness. Old stone buildings. Cats on rooftops. Cats in alleys. Window boxes. The hotel is open and our room is great. Small, no phone, with a little black and white TV that barely receives any picture. We go the nearest town to, you guessed it, find some place to eat. We stop in one open bar/restaurant and I say in French, "three please." (hello, meaning a table for three.) He brings us three beers. Isn’t there an age limit for drinking in France?)

Robin then convinces the local Manpower office to let us use its Internet and then off to the local tourist office to get a map. Once we track down the local grocery store we are in luck.

I was overwhelmed with the beauty in Provence, France, especially in Arles. We began the morning at a colorful, bustling market where the locals bought their clothes, fish and fruit (and we found some bargains). Arles itself is a trek back through time. Via a walking tour visitors can stop at 12 locations where Vincent Van Gogh painted. There are reproductions of his art on easels at each of these spots. Van Gogh’s painting of The Bedroom is my favorite painting of all time, so to be in Arles where he painted it was inspiring to me. Walking the footsteps of Van Gogh, I imagined how the town could have been in 1888. Because of continual Mistral winds the skies were vibrant blue. Van Gogh raved about the colors, light and the sunflowers (which were not yet in bloom while we were there).

The cost of sending out laundry in European hotels is obscene. Four US dollars for each pair of underwear. US$ 9 for a t-shirt. US$ 12 pair of pants. US$3 pair of socks. Sum it up and each “load” could cost over US $200. After these almost six months we could have bought two washers and a dryer. Which would, in fact, weigh as much as our current luggage. In the washing machine at the laundromat in Arles, I found 50 pounds. Score. Let’s put that toward the tip we’ll have to give to the porter at airport to put our luggage on the airplane (without an up charge!).
By the way, I also found 50 pounds while we were walking up to the tower at St. Paul's in London.

Off to find Robin’s sister’s, Holly’s, friend’s bed & breakfast about an hour from Avignon. Tricia was so patient (bored, but patient) driving to Georgia’s. Her B&B is fantastic, the gardens are exquisite and the area is romantic with fields of lavender and small towns. We fell in love with her Portuguese Water Dog, Utah. We’ve got to find some of those cute furry pups when we get ready to adopt a dog. Next summer Robin will present a week-long photo workshop at Georgia’s B&B. Join us.
Final stop at Pont du Gard, ancient Roman aqueducts. The magnificent structure soars three stories high over the gorge of the Gardon River. There are hiking trails and lush hills surrounding aqueducts. Built around B.C.20, the World Heritage Site boasts aqueducts that reach 161 feet high and 985 long.

The train station in Avignon is modern, high tech and looks really awesome. The fast train to Paris takes only a wee bit over two hours. The airfare cost between European cites is so bloody cheap, so much so, that it is cheaper to fly than to go by train. But then, if we did, we would miss the cows watching us as we pass by.

The first night in town: Star Wars with French sub titles then up to the top of the Eiffel Tower. The cost of touring/living in Paris is outlandish. But we had to eat. We found another Maoz across from Notre Dame (yum falafels) and on the last night a smoke-free organic restaurant. We climbed to the top of Notre Dame and found a charming bookstore called Shakespeare & Company right across the street.

I sucked up more smoke in Europe and Asia than I have in my entire life combined. (Breathe…in with the good, out with the bad.) Tricia got food poisoning and stayed in bed for 36 hours. It gave us all an excuse to rest. No Versailles because we all were in hibernation. With the food poisoning princess in tow, we meandered through the Louvre.

More cows watching us on our train to Brussels. The chocolate was so smooth. So filling. So much of it. Everywhere. When we checked into the Sheraton, we were greeted as the family of Mr. Pinder Grast. That was the worst bastardization of our name yet. We met Helene from Colorado who hung out with us for the day. We toodled to the The Grand Place (hey Lynn, you were right, you see Plaza Mayor…you see The Grand Place, except with more chocolate shops.) Mannequin Pis was adorable and across from and next to more chocolate shops. He has a sister, you know. She’s off across town, squatting in a back alley. Off to Bruges for more chocolate-covered orange peels and a climb to the top of the bell tower. Our mission, seek out the smoke-free vegetarian restaurant. The charm and quiet of the town and the canal, the people and the parks were welcome by all three of us.

London: Ask me any underground train stop of the Tube. Go on. Ask me how many steps up and down and from platform to platform. Go on. I’ll answer as soon as I get my feet out of the nice hot soak. Oy vey. We covered a lot of ground. From The Globe to Big Ben, from boat rides down the Thames, from Madame Tussauds to Picalilly Circus, and of course, to the theatre Daaling. The Producers was a hoot. Other than way too much meat in pubs and the British Pound being almost double the US dollar, London was a hoot.

Robin bravely went to a dodgy neighborhood to pickup a rental car and got lost on the way back. (I was ready to call a bobby to find him). We stopped at our favorite food store to stock up for our ride north. Cheers, London.

Read past or future journals on details of our trip to Scotland. It was phenomenal. The scenery was lush and lovely. We stayed away from haggis and black pudding, consisting of animal organs and animal blood, respectively. Nessie was nowhere to be found but Loch Ness, itself, is indeed dazzling.

We capped off our journey back in London and back to the theatre to see Billy Elliott. I laughed. I cried. Its origins in gritty northern England is touching and real. The choreography is outstanding.

Our plane takes off in 9 hours. Thanks for sharing our journey with us. I'll be writing wrapup journals after we get home. Stop in to read the final chapters if you have time. But then again, you can read more about it when the books come out. Or just wait for the movie.
Marla's Journal 06/08/2005 - 07:42AM
Location: United Kingdom
We've found the Loo of the Year
We have fallen into an interesting pattern. Spend the night at our targeted town, tour that lovely town and then drive out in the late afternoon to our next destination. Oh sure, that sounds good in theory. But in reality, at the bewitching hour when the sun is setting low in the sky and stomachs start to rumble, it’s a funny thing, it’s more difficult to find our next hotel, even with Map Quest directions in my hands and Captain Rob at the wheel. Although, for those of you who have traveled throughout Europe, you may commiserate with us on this next point. Street names change. Often. Not every few miles but sometimes every block or ½ block. What joker thought up that scheme? If you sneeze, you have to go around the next roundabout and go back to check out the street name.

(Okay off my soapbox)

We have been, I’m sorry to say, true tourists, this last leg of the journey. I even keep the camera draped over my shoulder and not hide it in my backpack.

In Liverpool we toured Albert Docks and, of course, did a Beatles experience. I sure do love John (even though when I was 6 years old I was in the Monkees’ fan club and really loved Davey better) and his unwavering persistence for standing up for what he believed in, even at the cost of deportation. Love and peace, what could be more basic than that?
We found a free hot spot connection at Hemingways coffee shop. So while Robin and Tricia climbed the church tower I reminisced to Elvis Costello music and went on-line for directions for upcoming inn locations (refer to paragraph one regarding hotel directions).

York summary: City walls and ruins were well preserved. York Minster: Gothic Church. Big. Old. Pretty. Climbed tower. Constantine was named Emperor here and was unavailable for lunch on the day we were in town. But his people gave us a coupon to use at Borders book store which is down the street from the Gap and across the road from Staples. There are many remainders of York being the capital of the Anglo-Saxon kingdom of Northumbria in the 5th century, like street actors who get themselves out of straight jackets and chains and Starbucks. The Vikings took over from 860 to 950. The Normans came in, destroyed and rebuilt the town replete with a castle and city walls, vegetarian restaurants and lots of shops that sell cuddly stuffed bears and painted shot glasses.

The York fire department, however, seems to be more clever than the Vikings, since they rent the out-of-use fire trucks for people to party in. (The night we saw them there was a very drunk bachelorette party rip roaring in the fire trucks.) If the Vikings rented out their ships, they may have more drunken friends to fight the Normans with and could have kept the town.

North York Moors National Park was, as the Brits say, Brilliant. Our goal was the Goathland Train Station, which has remained the same for the past 200 years. And, drum roll please, that’s where the Harry Potter Hogsmeade train station was filmed. A very cool spot. If you’re ever in town, do stop in.

Gateshead – to be? No, not to be. Our next inn, chosen by a nincompoop travel agent in Australia, was a dump. We drove right by it and onto the next town of Newcastle…hello Marriott.

Alnwick Castle is a winner. We couldn’t snap enough photos. The Harry Potter scene where the first flying lesson took place was filmed here along with other exterior scenes. The twelfth Duke of Northumbria and his family still live there. No, again, not available for lunch, but we did meet the family cat!

Believe it or not, the UK has an award for “The loo of the Year.” En route to Edinburgh we discovered one of the winners! The outdoor, public loo was adorned with chairs, flowers, painted walls, drinking cup (yeah like I’d drink out of one plastic cup that 500 people before me used) oh, and the cleanest toilets I’d ever seen. This was in the breathtaking coastal town of Dunbar, just south of Edinburgh, where we stopped on the coast to feel the spray of the water and get some sea cucumbers for dinner.

Edinburgh: Castle, Royal Mile, old skyscrapers…lovely town. In 1998 the Scots voted to get their own parliament back (from England). New parliament building opened in 2005. The last parliament held here was in 1707.

Food note: most of our inns are complete with breakfast. Typical English breakfast: eggs, sausage, baked beans, roasted tomatoes, hash brown potatoes, grilled mushrooms. And when we ask, in most places, they even have vegetarian/tofu sausages. Is this heaven? No, it’s Scotland.
Marla's Journal 06/04/2005 - 07:58AM
Location: United Kingdom
Anybody got that new navigation system for us to borrow?
England, the drive North.

As we pull into the driveway of our first lodging of on our drive north, Stratford-upon- Avon, we were greeted by the proprietor. If you could have seen the look on her face when I told her we had reservations for the night. Houston we’ve got problems. No reservation recorded. These things happen on a trip of this length. And this is the first and the last. Okay, so we only had to stop at two hotels, the second one had a vacancy.

Our next day in Stratford –upon-Avon was delightful. When you find an English pub that serves pita and hummus you know it’s going to be a good day. Lots of Shakespeare history combined with the charming the Avon River made our visit brilliant.

Off to Warwick Castle where, among 2000 years of history, Harry Potter movies were shot there. The grounds and gardens were striking and vibrant.

As moved as I was by the south of France, I was equally moved by Shrewsbury/Shropshire (near Telford).

Our drive to Dovecote Grange B&B was interesting to say the least. We got diverted many times around many roundabouts through many gas stations and via payphones. The (unwritten) rules of the road a clearly point out that one should never use the L word. When we finally ended our scenic route, we were greeted and hosted by a charming family: Paul, Mandy, Lydia and, well, I’m sorry to say that I didn’t meet their son, but I met their dog and kitties. Another English pub dinner, but this night it was brilliant. Laura our server was silly and witty and funny and downright pleasant. Sorry to say that we didn’t get a photo of her. The B&B was so cozy and the breakfast was vegetarian – the best we’ve had in months and months.

England: rain sun, wind, rain, sun, wind. Within moments. Within hours.
Like a new beginning every time the sun comes out. Grab your jacket. Get your sunglasses. Second chance…rain, sun, clouds, wind.

After viewing an art book at Paul and Mandy’s of a local artist we set out to find the artist and get her book. Back on the road and after many times around many roundabouts through many gas stations and via payphones (sound familiar? We had another lovely scenic route, and then we finally fond the Pink House and Peter and Maggie. Peter showed us around until Maggie came back. Maggie was an intense, lovely conversationalist and her art work was amazing. Her intense blue eyes and forthrightness was invigorating and refreshing. She suggested that we return and she will show us around the countryside of Shropshire. I plan to one day. Perhaps in a few years when I feel like getting on a plane again. In the meantime, Maggie, your book will inspire me and remind me of you.

Robin’s birthday!!! He made us not make a big deal about it. So enough said.

Back on the road to Liverpool. Peter gave us directions. (Thanks Peter!) We have a map. We have a full tank of gas and car snacks. So heading to Liverpool is no problem. Until we ended up in Wales. Hello. So we’re close, does that count? As we pulled off the side of the road in Logellen another car pulled over and asked US for directions. Did he know he was asking The Pendergrasts, the morons of English driving travel. But we sure do have some great photographs. Look over there, a sign written in Welsh. We wouldn’t have gotten that by staying on track. Or the bite on the bum by taking a nature pee. I’m glad for batteries for I Pods and computers for Tricia’s sake.

Let me kiss the ground. Liverpool. Our lodge. Out of the bloody car.

Note: There is another one of mine and Tricia's to read if you go to Tricia's Journals and Marla's Journals.
Marla's Journal 06/04/2005 - 07:56AM
Location: Spain
Barcelona...Let’s Catch Up


Barcelona…
We’re trying to get in the swing of eating dinner at 9 pm at night and then going to sleep on a full stomach throughout Spain. Like all other locations, we walk everywhere. I really wish I had put on a pedometer prior to leaving. I would guesstimate our peds have seen about 700 miles of trekking through towns, up hills, around monuments and up towers and churches. The Zen of walking……………….

In Barcelona, we all slept in, even Robin who slept in till past 9:00. We trekked down the Ramblas, which is a colorful street a few miles long lined with street mimes, vendors selling everything from birds, flowers, fruit, local souvenirs, and local nutcases as well. We did find Maoz, our favorite falafel shop here as well.

We hoped on a tour bus to ride throughout the town to get a flavor for some Barcelona architecture. I hope never, ever again to be on a tour bus in my life a. Ever. We stopped at Park Guell, a mystical fantasy of an outdoor park and garden full of Antonia Gaudi’s (eccentric native son) gate houses, wrought iron gas lamps, grand stairways of stones, dragon fountain, and hall of 100 columns—each different. The guide said to stay with group or meet at the bus in the parking lot at 4:45. Of course we were tired of groups by now, so….we left the group and ended up not knowing our way back and running to find the parking lot by 4:45 only to have the group be back by 5:00. Never Ever.

Gaudi’s legacy is Sagrada Familia, a catholic church that he worked on from 1883 to 1926. Still not finished and won’t be for 50 years, when complete the church will have 12, 330-foot spires, a bizarre façade, and symbolism that reaches to the ends of the next millennium. It’s intermingled with cranes and construction scaffolding. The poor guy, Gaudi, ended up getting run over by a truck.


Marla's Journal 05/31/2005 - 15:46PM
Location: United Kingdom
Northwest Herald Article # 10
Here we are with three weeks left of our around-the-world journey. These past five months of travel have given us the chance to clear our minds of life’s everyday pressures in order to allow us to absorb new sights and ideas. We’ve diverted from the routine issues of business and family and set our imaginations and cameras free. We reaped great peace of mind knowing that our main focus has been on traveling, keeping each other safe and enjoying our new surroundings.

With a clear head it has been much easier to enjoy the small details and pay attention to what has been put in front of us. Obviously, it’s not possible to talk to everyone we see so we observe people and activities around us.

We watched the artists in Piazza Navona in Rome, Italy. We were surrounded by many tourists (whom I tried to ignore to appreciate the architectural beauty) as well as three fountains, the largest is the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (fountain of the four rivers) designed by Bernini. On the square, it was a delight to watch the many artists create and paint. Works in progress are a wonder to view, to watch how the images and colors unfold.

I was overwhelmed with the beauty in Provence, France, especially in Arles. We began the morning at a colorful, bustling market where the locals bought their clothes, fish and fruit (and we found some bargains, too). Arles itself is a trek back through time. Via a walking tour visitors can stop at 12 locations where Vincent Van Gogh painted. There are reproductions of his art on easels at each of these spots. Van Gogh’s painting of The Bedroom is my favorite painting of all time, so to be in Arles where he painted it was inspiring to me. Walking in the footsteps of Van Gogh, I imagined how the town could have been in 1888. Because of continual Mistral winds the skies were vibrant blue. Van Gogh raved about the colors, light and the sunflowers (which were not yet in bloom while we were there).

As we learned about the history in each locale I tried to imagine the area as it once was. While touring through the T ower of London, it was easy to envision Queen Elizabeth taking a walk through the stone archways of the courtyards. There have been many occasions when we set foot on history. I looked past the actual ruins and recalled the stories of wars, ambitions, fears, and loves of those who walked there before me.

Riding the public trains and buses opened up a great vantage point to observe how people dress and what they read. How could the guy in the red T-shirt eat that greasy sandwich? Was the broach on the tall lady’s green jacket a family heirloom? Did the man reading about the soccer game watch the game on television?

When I was home, my mind was filled with questioning. planning, organizing, and worrying about what I forgot to do. On our journey, I ask myself different questions like: Could I live in a place like Bangkok with monsoon seasons? Would I feel safe driving in Paris traffic? Could I adapt to living at such a slow pace like in New Zealand?

Our cross-country train trips from Barcelona to Montpelier, Avignon to Paris, and Paris to Brussels provided more thought-provoking time. As quickly as I could sit back and get glimpses of homes, farms, schools, and vineyards, random thoughts would speed through my head. Noting the differences between our lives at home compared to abroad helps to make our travel fascinating. The three of us were captivated by details. Our aim was not to live as we lived at home. It would have been a waste of time and money to try to recreate our comforts of home.

To my fellow travelers, if you keep your mind unhindered you can come home from your adventures with a larger view and refined perspectives. Keep on the lookout for the new and beautiful and the dramatic and surprising. Satisfy your curiosity over and above guide books to enable you to come home reanimated with a mind filled with not only facts but stories and poems as well.

Travel bombards our senses with overwhelming delights. Many people travel to break away from everyday concerns. Even though they disappear when you are away, they return when you enter your front door. With a renewed outlook, those same issues can seem much lighter (unlike our luggage which seems to have doubled in size!).
Marla's Journal 05/30/2005 - 20:37PM
Location: United Kingdom
Northwest Herald Article # 9
May 16, article #9

I think Dr. Seuss wrote the book “Oh, The Places You’ll Go” just for us. It pretty well sums up our journey. For us, however, it’s not only the places we’ve been, but the people we’ve met along the way that have helped to shape our journey.

At almost every stop we’ve made an effort to meet the locals and get off the beaten path. It’s hard sometimes because there is so much to see of monuments and museums. We’ve not only found areas that were less crowded, but we tried to get to know people, even in the touristy areas. In these places, we began conversations with passersby, tour guides and others queued up in lines with us. In doing so, we’ve met some amazing new friends and found remarkable places that that weren’t in our guidebook.

Last January, we cut out a newspaper article on a Leonardo Da Vinci exhibit of his genuine journal writings and some recently found frescos (wall paintings made in plaster) that were painted by Da Vinci’s students while he was teacher in Florence. The frescos were discovered under some plaster in a monastery. In Florence, Italy, we were detectives on a search with the ripped-out article one hand and a map in the other. The exhibit, unfortunately, ended in February. We, however, met a charming person, Carmelina, at a church who knew about the frescos. We spent a lot of time with her and got to know about her, her family and a local artist. She is a poet, writer, and now a new friend.

She referred us to the Istituto Geografico Militare and Col. Ruggiano. Once inside we were privileged to see original maps, charts and books, some dating back to the 1400s, as well as two of the sought-after Da Vinci student frescos (since the Institute is adjacent to the monastery).

Our file folder of e-mail addresses is thick with names of people whom we’ve met. We’ve had engaging conversations with one of our Chinese tour guides about life on Chinese college campuses, his family and small-town life in China. Since we spent so much time in Australia, it was much easier to turn acquaintances into friends. One family that we met in Rome we will visit next month at their home in England. With e-mail, it will be easy to maintain long-distance communication and friendships.

For those travelers who may want to try to meet some locals, here are a few things we did to gain experiences that helped us meet and understand other people of the world.

We rented bikes and explored without a specific destination in mind and at a leisurely pace. We tried to learn a bit of the local language; even though many people speak English, or some words of it anyhow. We went to local events at parks, sporting events, and temples/churches. We took busses and trains that locals took. We shopped in markets and stores owned by the locals; they love to chat. We stayed in small hotels and bed & breakfasts. On longer bus and train rides, we talked to people around us.

We don’t want our memories to be a blur of hotels, airports, museums and bus stations with the only locals we met being those who sold us t-shirts and tickets. Dr. Seuss was right, we have been seeing great sights. Thanks to some of the people we’ve met, they are better than we had planned.

Marla's Journal 05/30/2005 - 20:35PM
Location: United Kingdom
Northwest Heralf Article # 8
Alive With History

One of our goals on our around-the-world adventure was to delve into world history.
Unfortunately our trip only spans six months; hardly enough time to stretch beyond the boundaries of a few cultures and nations. We’ve taken a look at current and past human experiences. Combine that with an overload of information from our local guides and travel books on weather, religion, and market economies and one might think we’re ready to come home. Not yet.

We left home with a desire to take it all in and grow and learn in the process. We have been bombarded by new sights, smells, sounds and ideas; so let me share some with you.

China has a recorded history dating back over 4,000 years. The history is well preserved in voluminous records of not only the Chinese, but of its neighbors as well. Histories of emperors, wars, traditions, food, and culture have survived. We visited many historical sites and shrines. Two of our favorites were the Great Wall and the Terra Cotta Soldiers.

China

Around 214 BC, The First Emperor of China ordered the construction of the wall, taking about ten years to finish. The Great Wall served as a defense and symbolized the power of the emperor. Additional construction and extensions were made by dynasties. It then was a barrier against barbarians and a mark of China's territorial claims.

Today, there are many locations of the wall for tourists to visit. The entrances, as well as on the wall itself, are lined with souvenir sellers. Regardless, the mammoth structure is impressive. The climb is steep and challenging but worth the effort.

The first emperor of The Qin Dynasty created one empire to unite all of China and also left the legacy of the Terra Cotta Soldiers. When the 12-year-old emperor came into power, he began the creation of an army of warriors, in battle formation, who were situated near his tomb to serve and guard him in the afterlife. Every warrior has a unique facial expression. In all, there are 6,000 are unearthed (and two thousand more still underground) larger than life-size figures of warriors, horses, chariots, and weapons. In 1974, peasant farmers digging a well discovered the underground burial pit. This site was so impressive!
Cambodia
The Temple of Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman, who reigned between AD 1131 and 1150, II for the Hindu God Vishnu. It took over 30 years to build the five towers which expresses Khmer and Hindu art. Angkor Wat features the longest continuous bas-relief in the world. The temples are spread out over about 40 miles around the village of Siem Reap.
After the 15th-century conquest of Khmer kingdom Angkor was abandoned and deserted. Over 500 years of jungle growth covered the temples and in the late 1800s it was rediscovered by French missionaries. Even through 30 years of bloody Cambodian civil wars, Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples still stand. Extensive restoration has taken place to ensure keeping of valuable historical structure and for safety to tourists. It is a sight not be missed and place of reverence.
Vietnam
Our stay in Vietnam encompassed the Vietnamese fête of the 30th anniversary of their reunification, basically their win over the South Vietnamese and America. When we set the date to be in Vietnam, we had no idea that it would fall on this public holiday. As they celebrated, I, as an American, took a long, quiet pause. As the Vietnamese partied, I was a bit ill at ease.

We visited the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City. It displayed artifacts, military equipment, and photographs from the war. It’s graphic to say the very least. When I walked away I couldn’t get the lump out of my throat or the tears from my eyes. Regardless of you r beliefs about the war, one can’t help but have homage and respect for the soldiers and correspondents who took great risks and endured immense suffering.

Traveling has been mind-expanding and has certainly changed us. The kind of travel we have been trying to experience has been not only to see the people and their history, but to talk to them as well. Many people speak English and, for example, in Cambodia and China, English is taught in schools. The young people are eager to use their English. At one university in China, every Tuesday night, there is an English chat session, with topics changing every week.

We learn whatever foreign words we can, as well; it helps to break the barrier. We thoroughly enjoy the human connection. Not only does it help us appreciate the personality of the community, it also helps them to get an indication of what an American is like. Plus, it’s flat-out fun trying to cross communication obstacles. We hope that this can make a difference in the world, one person at a time.

Our little piece of human contact around the world combined with historical insight allow us to improve our understanding of how people have existed with each other over time and have shaped the present.



Marla's Journal 05/25/2005 - 12:50PM
Location: Spain
We're really in Brussels on our way to London even though this journal is from Spain
On to Madrid.

It was great fun hooking up with Holly, Lynn and Becky as well as Jenna.
We received cockamamie instructions from our hotel for our airport pickup and subsequently ended up searching for our ride for an hour. On the way to the hotel had a grand conversation in English with him and he, in his early stages of learned English, explained how his love is in San Fransisco and he is moving to Edinburgh.
It was a funny conversation.

The three of us were so hungry. Big, mean, and ferocious hungry. Finally to Hotel Quo. As soon as we checked in Jenna tracked us down. Fist stop was lunch. Ham. Meat.
Cheese. No vegetables. Eating in Madrid is tricky business. Actually eating on the road in general for the Pendergrasts is an ordeal. Robin much more flexible. Tricia and I don’t mind wandering around streets reading menus in search for the prefect meal. Sometimes we have cravings for French onion soup or in Italy we absolutely craved tomato soup. Brie cheese has also carried us through Italy and France. Give the French a big high five for their love of cheese.

We got back to our Madrid hotel, hanging out in the lobby getting ready to track down the Websters, and lo and behold…they walk in the door. Super sleuth Holly.

The next three days were filled with walking the town and doing a hop-on-hop-off bus, more Spanish architecture, more plazas, more palaces,. No bullfights if you please. The highlight was the Prado Museum and a handful of Valázquez, Goya, El Greco, And Bosch paintings. With a sprinkling of Rubens and Raphel. Okay we really tried to analyze Bosch's The Garden of Earthly Delights, but oy vey, all the nakedness and frivolity and weird suffering, well, needless to say we left that up to the art history majors.

We found a great vegetarian falafel restaurant, Maoz, that we ate at twice. (and then we sought it our again in Barcelona and Paris).

We had dinner at Jenna’s Senora’s apartment one night. As we mounted the stairs on the 7th floor there was smoke billowing out of an apartment, with a dog hanging out the front door searching for a clear breath of air. Jenna walked in and asked if everything was okay. Robin the firefighter was close at hand. Tricia and I kept walking up. We didn’t know that this was the apartment of the Senora at whose home we were dining. It turned out that the garlic was set aflame when the Senora’s neighbor came over to chat and the Senora lost track of what she was doing and forgot about the garlic. We went up to the rooftop for air and because the Senora did not want us in the apartment yet.

Jenna was going to come to Barcelona with us but due to Internet misconnections, her train tickets were no reserved and there were no seats available on the train (according to the ticket seller). But of course, there were seats available on the train when we got on.

You read perception of art history now here is our roundup of cultural similarities: there are homeless people, pigeons and McDonalds everywhere world.
Marla's Journal 05/24/2005 - 12:52PM
Location: Belgium
Chocolate really tastes better in Belgium
We've been walking around Brussels today eating chocolate and people watching at the Grand Place. The chocolate shops are located about every 5 paces and we stopped in them all. They give Long Grove Chocolate and Fanny May a run for their money. Dark chocolate-covered orange peels are my favorite and I've tried many different ones, just to compare, of course.

I have to apologise for the lack of communications and correspondence. The Internet connections have been non existent or so expensive that it prohibits us from using it. For example, at our hotel in Brussels it was (are you sitting down?) 60 dollars an hour! Let me see, do we save for Tricia's college education or do we communicate with friends and family? You decide. So when we found this cheapey Internet cafe we ducked inside. However (there's always a caveat when something is inexpensive), there is no place to plug in a USB or our laptop; which means no way to transmit images or download our long journals that we scribed on the laptop while taking a train from Provence to Paris. We'll be hopeful that our hotel in London will be more cost efficient.

Love and miss you.

Marla
Marla's Journal 05/19/2005 - 12:46PM
Location: France
Avignon
We're in Avignon, France this morning. Spain was wonderful. In Madrid, we met up with Holly, Lynn and Becky as well a friend Jenna. Internet connection is not so great, again, so I hope to catch up with journals and photos somewhere in France.
xoxoxo Marla
Marla's Journal 05/17/2005 - 00:18AM
Location: Italy
Florence Was Deligthful
Florence (Firenze)

Florence was delightful. We walked everywhere (so we didn’t feel so bad eating Gelato). See photo. We really didn’t (and still don’t) know how to speak Italian. But whenever I tried, inevitably, the person to whom I was speaking spoke to me in English. And conversely, whenever I was an ignorant American, and spoke English, of course, they spoke Italian. Nonetheless, it did not stop me from eating our way through Firenze.

We (Tricia and I) did some shopping, how can you pass up an opportunity to buy shoes in Italy? We also made our way to the usual tourist spots like the Duomo, Sanata Maria del Fiore cathedral. We climbed the 463 steps and met some new pals along the way, like Steve, Addie, Brad, and some young high school kids from Croatia. At the top is a busy Renaissance painting of the Last Judgment. We love the challenge of a good climb. Tricia runs to the top, while Robin and I take the turtle’s pace. Does it matter, we get to see the same view – eventually. Then off to more museums! The Accademia to see Michelangelo’s David. Larger than life. Full of expression. Worth the waiting!
The Uffizi Gallery was a walk through history as well, from the 13th to the 17th centuries to be exact. It was not a very large museum, since it originally belonged to the Medici family as their private offices and gallery. What a collection of Italian art all in one place: Leonardo, Raphael, Rubens, Michelangelo, and Boteticelli.

Okay, here’s basic Pendergrast interpretation of art history (a bastardized version of course). There are only three themes: Christian, naked or bloody. We still have museums in France and the UK to visit, but if I had to make book right now, I would bet we would still be correct.

We made some side trips to seek out Leonardo himself, but to no avail. We were told he left Firenze many years ago. We made another new friend, learned about a new artist and went on field trip instead. In trying to find a Leonardo exhibit (finito Febrio) and some frescos (wall paintings made in plaster) created by his students, we were led to a 15th century Santissima Annunziata where there was an exhibit of Gino Migliorini, who died at around100 years old last February (just about the time the Leonardo exhibit ended). Carmelina Rotundo was at the church and – surprised – Robin struck up conversation. She is a poet, a writer, an editor, and an intellectual. She knew about the frescos gave us some information. She then invited us to a poetry reading at the botanic garden. Okay. Here’s where it gets interesting. As far as I could remember, I don’t think any of us understand Italian, let alone Italian poetry. Didn’t matter. We were making our own Saturday Night Live segment.
Carmelina referred us to the Istituto Geografico Militare and Col. Ruggiano. Once inside we were privileged to see original maps, charts and books, some dating back to the 1400s, as well as two of the sought-after Da Vinci student frescos (since the Institute is adjacent to the monastery). They had over 150,000 books and even some fresh-off-the Guttenberg press books from the 1400s. What a treat.

We made some days trips. To Pisa (hey, the Leaning Tower in Niles, Illinois wasn’t this big). We met another new friend, Galit. She is from California and going to school in Barelona. When we got off the train we took out our map and set our course. I hope Christopher Columbo had a better navigator. We certainly looked a bit misguided (you never say the “L” word) and we were walking for a while. A nice older man (who passed us by many blocks back) asked in Italian if we needed directions. We must have looked like we went astray (never say the “L” word) so he drove us there himself. Luigi and his wife, Franca, couldn’t talk to us in English and we wouldn’t converse with them except to say gratizie. Franca did say no capesece. Well, yeah, no capesece. They were so kind and cute. Pisa is one huge tourist trap. We ignored it. Of course, we climbed (Tricia ran) to the top.

Sienna was a nicely preserved medieval town. We ate, walked, took photos and left.
Lucca, on the other hand was charming, beautiful, and romantic. We rented bikes (after we ate, of course) and rode around the top of the city wall which was tree lined and shady. It was a great place to people watch.

If I would have known about Lucca first, I would have preferred to stay in Lucca and day trip to Florence. Next time.

This branch of our trip to Florence/Tuscany was delightful.



Marla's Journal 05/11/2005 - 05:52AM
Location: Italy
Bread, pasta and olive oil

Rome was everything I had imagined it to be. It was a refreshing break from Asia. The temperatures are low to mid 80s during the day and 70s at night. But one of my life rules (always dress in layers) keeps us cozy all day. I’m trying to speak a bit of Italian, but it seems whenever I speak Italian a person responds in English and whenever I speak in English they respond in Italian. That, I’m sure, is no coincidence. So when approached by a person trying to sell us a tour at the Colosseum, I responded in French and she left us alone. (that was Tricia’s idea!).

Don’t worry, I won’t bore you with history (like I did in Asia) because I know we all know the Roman story. In our four days, we covered a lot of ground: The Vatican (where Robin got thrown out of St. Peter’s Basilica because he wore shorts – and I really think that there was some anti-American sentiment there as well), The Roman Forum, Colosseum, Trevi Fountain (where there was a lady with a telescoping stick with a magnet on the end picking out all the coins that people throw in…what a life!) not to mention the hundreds of various arches, monuments, fountains and piazzas. (that’s piazza not pizza!).

The highlight for me was going into The Sistine Chapel. The cleaning and renovation was completed last year. The professional renovators tried many different substances to restore the ceiling’s colors to those freshly painted by Michelangelo. They ended up using jello. I won’t eat it because it’s made of animal hooves, but, hey, if it’s good enough for the Sistine Chapel… One can see pictures of Michelangelo’s Renaissance rendition of Creation, but not until you sit inside and absorb the beauty and the talent can you appreciate the intensity.

Food in Roma was wonderful. We didn’t have one bad meal. I can’t get over how much the Italians eat, bread, pasta, three courses, wine, and lots of cigarette smoke. We jumped right in with the bread and pasta plan, however.

After reading about the thieves, pickpockets and scammers, the there of us have been on high alert since we came to Rome. We have, however, been extra cautious and have felt very safe. The scammers and beggars are more prevalent than the thieves. Ladies walk around the train station with babies slug around them as they beg for money. After seeing so many, we were convinced that there was a rent-a-baby operation whereby a beggar could hire a baby before setting out in order to look more pathetic.

We met some new pals here and hung out with them for a couple days: Michael, from Brighton, England via southern California, and Norma and Mike from Florida. See you in England. Other than the graffiti and the dirty streets, Roma was wonderful.


Florence (Firenze)

We took a peaceful train ride from Rome to Florence. Just as delightful, but lower key and with less graffiti. We
Marla's Journal 05/05/2005 - 04:19AM
Location: Italy
Buon giorno. We made it to Italy.
Buon giorno. We made it to Italy.

Let me backtrack a bit and recap some of Asia before jumping into Europe in a subsequent journal.

Cambodia:

(or course you’ll get some historical background from me, you always do.) The highlight was, of course, Angkor Wat. The Temple of Angkor Wat was built by King Suryavarman, who reigned between AD 1131 and 1150, II for the Hindu God Vishnu. It took over 30 years to build the five towers which expresses Khmer and Hindu art. Angkor Wat features the longest continuous bas-relief in the world. The temples are spread out over about 40 miles around the village of Siem Reap. Angkor Wat is the largest and most revered, with smaller ones located throughout the old kingdom. The King built a 5-mile reservoir around the kingdom, and to this day, no one knows what it was used for. There are no irrigation lines or any indication of farming use. Maybe it was created because he knew he could.

After the 15th-century conquest of Khmer kingdom, Angkor was abandoned and deserted. Over 500 years of jungle growth covered the temples and in the late-1800s it was rediscovered by French missionaries. Even through 30 years of bloody Cambodian civil wars, Angkor Wat and its surrounding temples still stand. Extensive restoration has taken place to ensure the preservation of valuable historical structures and for safety to tourists. It is a sight not be missed and place of reverence.
At the entrance there were children selling everything from chewing gum to postcards. Yes, we bought a pack of postcards. They are ruthless in their selling and marketing tactics. First they appeal to your emotions, “you’re so pretty.” Then they make you feel guilty, as they hold little babies, pout and look really pathetic. Then as you keep saying, “no,” and get into the car, they all crowd the car and you have to be careful not to close their little fingers in the door.
We stopped at a local market and got the same treatment; this time worse. But at least we bought some chopsticks and a beautiful tablecloth…and came away unscathed.

Vietnam:
Our stay in Vietnam encompassed the Vietnamese fête of the 30th anniversary of their reunification after what they call “The American War,” their win over the South Vietnamese and America and our allies. When we set the date to be in Vietnam, we had no idea that it would fall on this public holiday. As they celebrated, I, as an American, took a long, quiet pause. As the Vietnamese partied, I was a bit ill at ease.

After being in Communist China and now Vietnam, I felt a taste of the oppression and/or intimidation the citizens live with. We tried sending out many email messages from our hotel and often we received and “error” message saying our message cannot be sent because “it looks like spam to me.” First who is “me?” Second, THEY have a very watchful eye on all email communication and cover by denoting it as spam. Can you as a free citizen, imagine having those restraints, among countless others? (My apologies to anyone reading this who does not.)

Our guide in Vietnam was a jittery, uptight, nervous fellow who told Robin about 40 times not to take any photos of the American Embassy, because he (the guide) can get in trouble. This guy couldn’t understand our inability to leave on time (something about which Tula can empathize with me!) He could not understand Robin’s want to take photos of everyday people doing everyday activities, like riding bikes or sleeping in hammocks. He had a nervous laugh and made me uncomfortable. I was convinced that our driver understood very good English (even though he said he couldn’t) and was just there to eavesdrop on our conversations.

Raul Castro, second secretary of the Cuban Communist Party and Fidel’s brother, stayed at our hotel. He was one of the honored guests at the country’s events. Newspaper accounts tell that he was proud of the fruitful ties between Cuba and Vietnam. Anyone surprised?

In the local papers, it is stated that Vietnam is an economic pacesetter and is on its was to fully integrating with the global economy. I see this as a difficult proposition. How can the government keep its tight controls and, at the same time, expose its people to the vices of capitalism. This next newspaper story struck me as ironic. “Accused Embezzlers Indicted” was the headline. A director and seven others were accused of intentionally misappropriating millions of dollars from two major oil and gas corporations. This is a news, but all the corruption and briberies in the Vietnam government is not discussed, except by international media.

We visited the War Remnants Museum in Ho Chi Minh City. It displayed artifacts, military equipment, and photographs from the Vietnam War. It’s graphic to say the very least. When I walked away I couldn’t get the lump out of my throat or the tears from my eyes. Regardless of your beliefs about the war, one can’t help but have homage and respect for the soldiers and correspondents who took great risks and endured immense suffering. There were also torture chambers and images of people affected by Agent Orange. Needless to say, it was presented in a very biased fashion to not show not just the winning of the war but all the atrocities of the Americans and our allies. Of course it was one sided and they never showed any action that was dishonorable to their own people (and there were many) or the Americans and our allies.

Combine this with our visit to the Cu Chi Tunnels. For those of you who don’t know about the tunnels, let me explain a bit. It is an underground network of hundreds of miles that the Cu Chi people/Viet Cong lived in for 20 years…even before the Vietnam War. They had secret opening hatches that were camouflaged and were only large enough for a small Vietnamese to fit into. They had water wells, ventilation holes, kitchens, weapon and clothing manufacturing…a complete city underground. During the Vietnam War, however, they used these tunnels as a covert war zone.

When visiting what the Vietnamese call “The Historic Vestige Zone” visitors get to see the preserved, horrific, brutal ambush areas where they entrapped and killed American soldiers. They point out areas where American bombs hit. They show you captured American artillery and tanks. You can even shoot at a firing range using American weapons (AK47 anyone?). The Vietnamese merchandise this area (as promoted in the brochure) as “The Tunnel Network represents the undaunted will, intelligence and pride of the Cu Chi people. It is a symbol of the revolutionary heroism of the Vietnamese people….The model of the strategic hamlet is the place where America and their lackeys controlled people….it is a must to see Cu Chi Tunnels, in order that you understand how arduous and protracted the struggle was, and to understand our profound aspiration for peace, independence, happiness and living a comfortable life forever.” The irony, in their brochures they show Americans/Westerners touring the tunnels.

Bottomline, the guides at this amusement park (because you cannot walk through by yourself) laughed each time they demonstrated how a camouflaged trap killed an American. There are painted images of bloodied Americans on the walls surrounding these traps. I was disgusted. I was infuriated that we actually paid to see this and our money was going to the Vietnamese government. Preserving history is critical to our survival, so we learn for the past. Yet, this was so distasteful and blatantly malicious.

Now add this to so many of the Vietnamese young people (60% of the population is under 29 years old) in Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City who wear foreign-branded products. They believe the quality is better. There is a new variety of high-income earners in Vietnam who don’t know what to do with their money. A few years ago to flaunt this would have been taboo and a sign of rubbing elbows with the enemies. A new venue for consumption….cell phones, cosmetics, nightclubs, alcohol. No more of the same green military clothing or Vietnamese bicycles. 3 million motorcycles out of 7 million people in HCM City. Now a new financial system is taking place, “doi moi” the name of transition to the market economy. 80% of the population is still an agricultural economy yet Gucci and Nike have moved in. Many of them fakes, however, imported from China. But they don’t care.

Smoking inside all buildings is prevalent, including in restaurants, and pollution from traffic smog is overwhelming. In China, as Westerners, we were waved over and people wanted to take their photos with us. In Vietnam they glare. Prior to getting on the plane, we stopped in a supermarket to get toothpaste. Tricia and I (Robin was still green in the back of the van and recuperating from food poisoning) were swallowed up by vast consumerism while we were being gawked at.

I couldn’t get out of Vietnam fast enough. I will never go back to Vietnam.


Marla's Journal 04/29/2005 - 21:21PM
Location: Thailand
Northwest Herald Article # 7
We bid farewell to Australia and our Asia escapade has begun.

First stop: Bangkok, Thailand. The last time Robin and I were here was during our honeymoon. All the shrines and tourist spots are still in the same place and the weather is still hot. What’s different this time is that we were here on the New Year, Songkran. (Thais celebrate according to the astrological calendar. I’m really not in a time warp or haven’t yet lost my sense of reality on this adventure). The three-day event is celebrated in the streets with parades and carnivals as Thais throw water at each other from buckets, pitchers, water guns and hoses. What began as a tradition of cleansing to purge ills, misfortune and evil, is a three-day free-for-all. If anyone is planning a trip to Thailand in April, certainly try to get there during this countrywide party.

Many people who live in Bangkok left town for the holiday to visit family in outlying areas. Consequently, the horrible traffic that usually backs up the city for hours was non- existent. Lucky us!

We took a loud, fast “James Bond” boat down the klong (canal) and stopped at places of interest along the way. We traveled through waterways and saw how Thai people have lived on the canal; pretty much the same way for 200 years. What we Americans would consider run-down shacks, Thais consider home. They seem happy and unburdened. The Thais have beautiful smiles and are genuine people.

The Grand Palace, where the king used to live, had more than 100 gilded and decorated buildings that displayed Thai art and architecture. At every shrine, and there are more than 400 at the palace, the Thais offer prayers, incantations and flower water to the Buddhas and burn incense. The most famous is the Wat Phra Kaeo, the Emerald Buddha, a solid jade Buddha dressed in and surrounded by gold shrines. The King himself changes the Jade Buddha’s clothes every season.

In Thailand, there are dogs everywhere just lying around the streets and roaming around. Don’t pet them, though, they’re pretty mangy, albeit friendly. The monks and the passersby feed them.

Let’s not forget the shopping. Tricia and I had a ball at the night markets with all the inexpensive prices.

Second stop: Hong Kong, China. It is as out of control as New York on New Year’s Eve. If you are a shopaholic, however, this is the place for you. Not only can you can find every designer brand, but there are heaps of cheap stuff, too.

With almost seven million people, the city can only build upwards. There are countless high-rise buildings to accommodate housing and commerce. The living conditions are crowded, at best. The government housing is inexpensive and people have to wait up to seven years to get an apartment. Conversely, high-end condos with price points of 1.5 million sell out almost overnight.

The history of Hong Kong is intriguing dating back thousands of years, with its people robbed of its humanity many times over due to typhoons, Japanese occupation, Opium Wars, droughts and fires. One would never know by looking at the world’s largest shopping mall.

We took a side trip to Lantau Island, a rural land mass twice that of Hong Kong Island with 250,000 people. In Cantonese, Lantau means “broken head,” perhaps because of the rugged area dominated by Lantau Peak, which rises 3,086 feet above sea level. Up the mountain to The Po Lin Monastery is the world's largest, bronze statue of a seated Buddha (79 feet high). Surrounding the monastery are mountains, farmland, and the deep blue South China Sea. The last stop was in a remote fishing village. There was every type of dried fish part -- from head to tail -- available for purchase. People come in from Hong Kong on the weekends to shop for fresh (yes, still swimming) fish because it’s cheaper than in Hong Kong.

Another side trip was to Macau, which is connected to Mainland China. Macau began as a trade port between the Portuguese Empire and China, and was under the rule of the Portuguese until 1999. A huge gaming town, Macau has no sales or income tax because the casinos carry the weight. Both the locals and the tourists enjoy the benefits. Las Vegas casinos are being built and major renovations are taking place. In five years the city will have a Macau strip and fisherman’s wharf. Like Hong Kong, Macau is a Special Administrative Region of the People’s Republic of China, both benefiting from the “one country, two system” status. Chock full of temples, ruins and goddess statues, Macau is a lovely mix of Portuguese and Chinese history. Oh, did I mention the great shopping?
Marla's Journal 04/23/2005 - 21:47PM
Location: China
Xi'an ... Terra Cotta Soldiers and Tchotkes
Xi'an is located southwest of Beijing and was the original capital during the rein of the first emperor. The city is perfectly located with a flat landscape and fertile lands, surrounded by mountains on three sides and encompassing 8 rivers. It was this easy access that gave rise to the "Silk Road," which connected Xi'an to the rest of the world.
During this Qin Dynasty, in the third century BC, the emperor united all of China under one empire, provided a standard system of currency and written language. This was also the same guy who conscripted hundreds of thousands of laborers to build the Great Wall.
The emperor's greatest legacy is the Army of Terra Cotta Warriors who vigilantly guarded the area surrounding his tomb. In 1974, workers digging a well unearthed thousands of life-size statues of soldiers and horses in battle formation. The 6,000 figures of warriors and horses all face east, every warrior wearing a different expression. Archaeologists believe the warriors may be part of an even larger army still buried around the tomb.
Seeing the archeological pits of thousands of warriors, chariots and horses was awe-inspiring. Two thousand years ago the 12-year old emperor took 35 years to create all this to protect him in the afterlife. Photos will be up in a few days.
Xian is one of the few cities where a city wall remains, more than 600 years old. (Compare that to our US history!) Most other walls were torn down to make way for urban expansion during the Cultural Revolution.
Xi'an today is a combination of modern buildings in its city center, surrounded by (use your imagination) rural America during the 1910s. Workers cracking old sidewalks with pick axes and hauling away debris in wheelbarrows or on carts pulled by bikes. Brooms are the old plant husk variety and people sell food from carts throughout the streets. And almost everyone smokes. Combine this with cars and traffic, lots of it, people and bikes darting in and out of the cars; it’s chaos to us but a way of life here.
People hang out in the streets until late at night. Little kids included. The apartments that they go home to are small apartments with not many amenities. So, consequently, they are home basically to sleep.
The ‘Scam the tourist game’ is alive and thriving in China. The local kids and adults swarm the tourists (that would be the Pendergrasts) as we go into and out of every historical monument and shrine. Post cards and tochotkes and scarves and t-shirts and fake jade and hats…make them stop. Both times that our native-speaking guides bought items on our behalf the prices were ¼ of what we would have paid. Tourist suckers. Thanks Tom and Mario.
We have taken many day tours to ensure that we get to all the key spots in all locations. And in every single one, the guides stopped at “Friendship” stores so we could shop. Of course, these were not on out itinerary. We are always met at the door by a uniformed greeter who trails and hounds us the entire walk through the store with their calculator in hand. Please will someone tell them they are annoying?
We should all be blessed and appreciative everyday for where we live.
Marla's Journal 04/22/2005 - 09:54AM
Location: China
The Scam That Wasn’t
Okay, so the three of us were successfully dropped off at Beijng’s airport in order to fly to Xian. As soon as we walked in, we looked for the departure screen to direct us to the area to check in. (Not like in the US where you go to the airline’s specific counter, a few different airlines use the same space.) A man came up to us and looked at our ticket and waved for us to come with him as if he was going to point the way to the check-in area. (So far, it seemed plausible because when we came into Bejing an airport assistant showed us where to find the area for arranged transportation.) This guy helped us communicate at the check-in desk and walked with us to customs. Robin was being nice and was going to tip him. When Robin handed him a couple bills the guy said, “No 50, 50, 50” and pointed to each of us, respectively, when he said “50.” (Since we just paid a departure fee of about the same amount when we left Bangkok, that may have made sense. Except we paid it in an authorized area. And I know there is a departure fee for leaving China, but we were not leaving the country.) Robin started to unravel the “50, 50, 50” when the man took the money and started to walk away. I ran after him to get the money back; he gave me the bills, walked very fast away from us, and kept looking over his shoulder as he was leaving. Meanwhile, there were so many people, from the ticket agent to the customs agent, who saw this guy and said nothing. I guess this is going to prepare us for Italy!
Marla's Journal 04/14/2005 - 19:27PM
Location: Thailand
Genuine Smiles and Beautiful People
Happy tax day.

Bangkok, Thailand. The last time I was here was during our honeymoon. The good news is that all the shrines and tourist spots are still in the same place and the weather is still hot. What’s different is that we are here on the New Year (Thais celebrate according to the astrological calendar, so I’m not in a time warp or haven’t yet lost my sense of reality on this adventure). Songkran, the Thai New Year, which is celebrated with parades and carnivals, is celebrated in the streets when Thais throw water at passers-by from buckets, pitchers, water guns and hoses. It’s a bloody free for all for three days. It is a time of cleansing and purification and purging of all ills, misfortune and evil. Starting the new year fresh. Pickup trucks crammed with people are driven around town with water guns and barrels of water and people line the streets dousing everyone in site. There were not many westerners partaking in the splashathon. But we did. Why miss out on a chance to cool off from the 95° heat? More than half of the people who live on Bangkok left town to visit family in outlying areas. A huge bulk of the people live in the city only for work. Since it is a 3-day holiday around a weekend, they cleared out. Consequently, the horrific traffic that usually backs up the city for hours was non existent. Lucky us!

We took a loud, smelly fast “James Bond” boat down the Klong (canal) and stopped at places of interest along the way like The Temple of Dawn and The Grand Palace. Our English-speaking guide, Mr. Tham (Robin affectionately called him Tommy) provided the commentary. We travelled through waterways and saw how Thai people have lived on the canal, pretty much the same way for 200 years. What we Americans would consider shacks and run-down, they consider home. And they are happy and unburdened. The Grand Palace, where the king no longer lives, had more than 100 gilded and decorated buildings that displayed Thai art and architecture. At every shrine, and there are more than 400 at the palace, the Thais would offer prayers and incantations to the Buddhas and offer flower water and burn incense. The most famous is the Wat Phra Kaeo, the Emerald Buddha, a solid jade Buddha dressed in and surrounded by gold shrines. The King himself changes the Jade Buddha’s clothes every season.

There a dogs everywhere just lying around the streets and roaming around. They are mangy yet very friendly. The monks feed them. Oh yea, and shopping. Tricia and I had a ball; Robin was underwhelmed. A family friend, Fred, who lives here, took us to dinner at the Seafood Market where we shopped for our dinner among row after row of fresh fish and vegetables. Yum! Thanks Fred! Then Fred took us to the Ancient City, a beautiful botanic garden with miles of recreated ancient Asian art. The purpose of the park is to ensure that Asians don’t forget their past and keep art appreciation on top of their list. To end this amazing experience, I had a Thai massage where I was bent, stretched, pulled and stood upon. It was restorative and rejuvenating. Two whirlwind days full of beautiful Thai smiles and genuine people.
Marla's Journal 03/29/2005 - 20:05PM
Location: Australia
Northwest Herald Article # 6 -- Can A Person Balance Easier Down Under?
When we chose to take six months off and travel the world it was not to be in the most exotic, remote regions or death-defying areas. We chose destinations that we’ve all read about before, but we had a goal to see these places in a new way. Through the eyes of a family on a quest for tranquility and a more peaceful way to live.

Even though the natural world surrounds us everyday, we didn’t take time to appreciate it in between deadlines and appointments, while commuting on backed-up roadways and dialing on our cell phones (not simultaneously, however !).

One way to help us find the balance again in our lives was first to disengage from it all and then reprogram ourselves to find the long sought-after peace. We left our concerns behind to marvel at real life, nature and forces beyond our manufacture or control. Finding and immersing ourselves in nature at every stop along our adventure has helped to restore our balance. We’re not simply reading about being part of something larger than ourselves, we are living it and understanding it. Nature has given us a gift.

Research studies have proven that stress reduction, harmony and relaxation are benefits from being in the wilderness and interacting with nature. Wilderness, with its natural rhythms and sounds, inspires feelings of awe and wonder.

Nature's wonders have revealed themselves in many different ways. By knowing our part in nature, we solidify our place and become a vibrant player in it. We are all unique and make up the complete parts of the whole.

The Maori, the native inhabitants of New Zealand, call their land Aotearoa, the Land of the Long White Cloud. As a guest in their country, we saw it nothing short of a lush paradise replete with exotic animals, birds, water falls and giant ferns. Having been there, having seen the beauty, walked on glaciers, and felt the misty air, we feel more passionate about it as well as the people who inhabit the land.

In Australia we not only learned about the native animals like koala bears, wallabies, and kangaroos, we had the opportunity to hold them, pet them and feed them. We traveled the rivers and walked the mountainous hiking paths. The more profound experiences we have with animals, indigenous people, and new lands the more respect we have for them.

In the Hawkesbury River Valley, Australia, the wildlife was overwhelming. The sea birds were abundant: pelican, white ibis, black swan, egret, white-faced heron, and gull-billed terns. The land birds were just as prevalent, but noisier, they included the lorrakeet, kookaburra, cockatoo, and magpie. We steered clear of all local snakes but did see lizards and frogs. As hard as we searched not one possum, bandicoot, or squirrel glider came in view, even though we knew they were there. There were many bat species, and they were enormous. What astounded us was that all these animals were in the wild, not in zoos.

Education and scientific instruction is very practical and helps us work creatively with nature. While science explains nature to us, it is only our intuition that can perceive it. It is the being here that completes the cycle of learning.

We left our familiar community in order to relate to new ones. We hope to come home with a renewed sense of our own community and perhaps a new way to live in it with a better way to respond to our daily challenges.
Our entire trip is not solely lnature-oriented, but a combination of family experience and nature explorations. Again, it’s the balance.

Marla's Journal 03/29/2005 - 20:03PM
Location: Australia
Northwest Herald Article # 5 -- Seeking Out Public Spaces
Regardless of the cities we visit, we always look for outdoor venues in order to meet locals, take great photos and to watch people. After spending plenty of time in and around Sydney, Australia, (our current location) I realized that one of the best investments that a city can make is in public spaces which give people many opportunities to be involved in a variety of activities. We have found this delight in many public settings, including at the beaches, parks, city centers, and harbors. One of the most dynamic places we have visited is the Sydney Olympic Park.

Within the Sydney Olympic Park there are 22 miles of bike trails, parks, nature study areas, picnic pavilions, indoor and outdoor concert venues and stadiums, artwork, and fountains. And we have traversed and enjoyed much of that splendor.

The renewal of the site began during the 1980s. What’s more is that part of the land has been built on a former waste dump which entailed the need for toxic and garbage clean up. To create such a dynamic environment, Sydney had incentives and funding due to the 2000 Olympics.
The environment is extraordinarily “green.” Recycled materials were incorporated into the roads, infrastructure, and buildings of the facilities. Solar panels were designed into the master plan, wetlands and parks have been created, water conservation is encouraged, natural environments are protected, and recycling bins are placed all over. Locals, tourists and park staff pitch in to protect the environment and keep it clean.
It is pleasant to feel the memories of the Olympics when seeing the foundation which housed the Olympic flame (which is now an artsy fountain surrounded by bricks inlaid into the ground engraved with the names of the medalist winners), prominent stadiums and Olympic flags.
The activity that takes place guides the personality of these public spaces. On some days a park is a wonderful place to find solitude and read a book and on a night when there is a concert nearby, the same park is a fantastic place to watch hundreds of children scream wildly and swing on the monkey bars.

With each new destination we’ll continue to seek out intriguing local sites to find out the personalities of the people and their communities.
Marla's Journal 03/29/2005 - 17:10PM
Location: Australia
'Strayla's Jewish Roots
Last Friday night we explored Australia’s Jewish roots. We attended services at The Great Synagogue in Sydney. After intense security questioning and passport review, we were allowed to enter. Every one of the members who greeted us was friendly and welcoming.

Prior to entering there were people milling around the front gates. One couple from Connecticut and a mother and daughter from North Carolina via Wilmette, Ill. The mom was from the Sout’ Side born on 79th and Jeffery. For those who want a bit of Marla background, when I was born I lived at 97th and Jeffery. Oy vey, what a small world!

Men on one side, women on the other. The service was rapid and all in Hebrew. Tricia and I tried to follow the prayers that we knew but they went so fast, the tunes were different and we giggled a lot. Robin, who sat on the men’s side, observed and surveyed the scene. He’s real trooper…that’s why we love him!

This grand building has been gracing Sydney since 1878. It faces Hyde Park and is the most renowned Jewish buildings in Australia.

As most of you know, much of Australia was founded by the convicts who were sentenced and then released here. After doing time, the convicts were given land and some used their convict’s wages to buy land from other convicts and from the government. Some of these ex-cons were Jews who settled and thrived here. Also, it is estimated that about 16 Jews were on the First Fleet which brought the early European settlers to Australia. These founding Jews played a huge part in creating Australia’s arts, sciences, professions, politics, industry and commerce.

By the late 1820s, there were twenty-five free Jewish settlers, many of whom were from eminent families. In the 1830’s Jews pulled together to pray in rooms over people’s shops with about 100 men and a ladies’ gallery of about 30. The first temple was built in 1842 from funds donated both Jews and Christians. Gentiles who had interest were welcome.

Later after a rift in the congregation (see that happened even back then!) members split. Out of that separation The Great Synagogue was built.

The same building stands today. It is amazing with its huge cathedral ceilings painted a beautiful color of sapphire with gold-leaf stars overlaid. The façade constructed of old freestone blocks with carvings and it has two towers on both sides of the main building. Today, modern buildings flank the old structure so you have to use your imagination to picture the grandiose edifice of old. There is a beautiful round window and massive wrought-iron gates (security?!) at the front. Stained glass windows inside with an ark that is decorative and impressive on the bima with a tier for a choir above. Very ornate and formal.
Marla's Journal 03/27/2005 - 17:44PM
Location: Australia
Some Random Thoughts From Down Under
Because Australia is isolated down under, it really needs to work at getting along with others. Something we all learned in kindergarten, huh? They seem to be watching China, which is so close and is becoming a super power of its own. They see China as a big opportunity to market goods and services. It’s currently Australia’s number two trading partner…after the US. The Aussies hope that the US/China relations stay tight since they have a strong economic relationship with China and a strong political/military alliance with the US.

Two main issues that the public schools here in Oz are dealing with are bullying and obesity. They are working on problem-solving and mediation as well as a speak-out day, where kids are encouraged to rat on the bullies. Nutrition and exercise is also being preached to the kids.

The Aboriginal community recently laid to rest in their ancestral soil the remains of 14 Aboriginal people, 11 adults and 3 kids. These remains were supposedly stolen in the name of science during early European settlement. The bones were in the Australian Museum and National Museum of Australia. The remains were wrapped in paperbark and bestowed with smoking ceremonies. They were conducted by Aboriginal ancestors believing that only now their ancestors’ spirits can be released.

On a funny note..when the Queen of England honored the British music history, she held a party to honor some guests. Upon meeting Jimmy Page, Eric Clapton, Jeff Beck, and Brian May, the Queen asked,” And what do you do?”

Only one Aussie soldier has been killed in Iraq. There were originally 2,000 Aussie troops sent over, but now they are substantially reduced. Compare that to the loss of American soliders.

It’s daylight savings time this weekend. Welcome one more hour of sleep and less daylight (since it is fall here…fall back.)
Marla's Journal 03/22/2005 - 07:53AM
Location: Australia
Just catching up -Northwest Herald article #4
Festivals and celebrations give us all something to look forward to and help break up the monotony of everyday life. The only difference when you are traveling is that you have the opportunity to experience fêtes from traditions other than our own. Over the past two months we have encountered many chances to enjoy life with people from many different cultures.
One that rings true all around the world, however, is the celebration of the New Year. Revelry, merriment, and the hope of a new beginning translate into any language. This year’s celebration was a bit calmer in New Zealand because the nature of the people themselves was more tranquil and laid back.
In New Zealand, we wanted to learn about the native Maori people. In doing so, we enjoyed a Maori “hangi,” which is a feast of food that is cooked in the ground with hot stones or in an underground oven. The native foods include meats and vegetables, such as kumara or sweet potato, and are wrapped in leaves (or to modernize the cooking method, in aluminum foil). The feast is accented with Maori music and folk dancing.
In Queenstown, NZ, as in most parts of the world, we attended a Tsunami Relief benefit, complete with a local fighters’ fire-engine pulling contest, music and children’s’ activities.
Being in the Southern Hemisphere it is time for summer fiestas, including many musical and cultural events from the locals. We have ventured to open-air concerts including Aussie country music, music, dance, and visual arts.
One of the biggest Australian public holidays is Australia Day which honors the founding of the first white settlement in 1788. It was one big party, just like on July 4th, except everyone had Aussie flags. And just like our great country, Australia has its rifts, as well, because on this day some of Australia's Aboriginal community members protested that it was a day in history that they were, instead, invaded by the British.
In Sydney the immigrant population is quite large from the nearby Asian counties. The Year of The Rooster was celebrated in grandiose style on Darling Harbor with dragon races, Chinese food, and cultural music and dance. The colors of the festival were fantastic and the food was delicious.
Just when you think there are no more holidays to celebrate you realize that none may be needed. The Sydney Olympic Park facilities are constantly planned with events with concerts at the large stadiums (recently Rod Stewart) to the wheelchair tennis tourneys, from the Davis Cup Tennis Tournament to free Friday night concerts in the park (Sydney Symphony Orchestra), from children’s sports activities to world champion swimming competitions.
What’s more, there is even time to take in and learn about sports that Americans do not indulge in too often like cricket and rugby. Just about every sporting game is a celebration around here.
We still have time to have a ripper (fantastic) time at the Royal Easter Show spectacular where we can eat fairy floss (cotton candy) and shrimp on the barbie (BBQ) with our mates and listen to some musos (musicians), and hope they have clean dunnies (outdoor facilities). It’s a shame, however, that we will be gone from Australia before we can enjoy The Rocks Aroma Coffee Festival which is the largest of its kind in the Southern Hemisphere. Onward to search out festivities in other parts of the world.


Marla's Journal 03/16/2005 - 17:59PM
Location: Australia
Obesity and French Films
We have about one month left then we’ll be departing Australia. The big Royal Easter Show is at the Olympic Park grounds for the next two weeks. It is just like a state fair done Australia style. We’ll keep you posted after we attend a few days and get our share of fairy floss (cotton candy) and see some polo games and Aussie rodeos.

On a worldwide note, it’s nice to see that obesity is not just an American problem. Here in Oz the obesity rate in children is rapidly catching up to those of the US. Schools and government agencies are trying to implement programs to work with kids to educate them. According to a report from the (believe it or not there is one of these) The International Obesity Task Force, there are 200 million of 350 million Europeans who are overweight. So even Macca’s (McDonald’s in Aussie language) new get fit program may bode well in the EU.

Tricia and I went to see a French film, Look at Me, at the French Film Fest on Sunday. In light of my recent French language education and my-longtime interest in foreign films, I though it would be a grand adventure. Tricia found the movie dark and slow. I found it to be an interesting portrayal of how people cow-tow to those in power only to get something from them. That spurred a conversation of the differences between Hollywood and French films. One extremely anti-American sentiment was at the beginning of the French Film was shown prior to the film trailers. Across the screen these words repeatedly ran: “Bored of the USA.” The words were sung to the tune of Springsteen’s Born in the USA. I can’t wait to get to France!

Happy St. Patrick’s Day! Wish us lunch trying to find low-fat corned beef and cabbage.
Marla's Journal 03/06/2005 - 16:27PM
Location: Australia
Spiders, Bagpipers and the Economy
Robin and I went for a great bike ride a few days ago and Tricia and I went for a bike ride on Saturday. We rode through the trails in and around Olympic Park. The trails are all paved and well marked (so we didn’t get lost in case you were wondering). They wind through the nature trails with animal conservatories and up winding trial hillsides (actually that hill was an old landfill). There is one path with enormous spiders in tree and on webs and in bushes and darting across the webs above the trail. Not a pretty sight. On my ride with Robin we heard some bagpipe music so we followed it down a street and under a bridge where we met Drew. He was practicing for a bag pipe competition in three weeks. We stopped to chat. He is a firee (fire fighter) in Burwood, nearby. Robin is going to visit and pick up some local firee t-shirts next week.

Tricia is having a fun time at school. McDonald College has so much to offer in terms of academics and performing arts. She doesn’t even mind the uniforms.

It seems it does not matter where one lives, your state of financial health is at the top of your list. In Oz it is no exception. Unemployment is nil here, which is good so everyone who wants a job can find one. The imbalance, however, is there are not enough worker bees. Anyone in need of work come on down to Oz.

On the other hand people are in an uproar over a .25% interest rise just announced yesterday, adding $500 a year to an average mortgage. In addition, private health insurance rates are going to rise by 8% in April. (Keep in mind that Aussies get government insurance, but private insurance is encouraged to offset costs.) Aussie economic growth is 1.5% per year; the hope was that it would have been at least 3%. There is a plan being considered to increase the immigration quota to draw skilled migrant workers and stop the threat of a national skills shortage, which would further hurt the economy. Prime Minister Howard is trying to get more people off of welfare by giving incentives to single parents to go back to work when the youngest child goes to primary school. But similar issues arise as they do in the US in regard to how these families grapple with after school care, job training and taxes that eat up the new income.

The financial well being of our families is a major thread of commonality … even half way around the world

We’re just beginning to get some cool autumn breezes. Time to find my sweatshirts.
Marla's Journal 03/02/2005 - 18:27PM
Location: Australia
Article #3 From the NW Herald -xoxo to all, Marla
We’ve settled into our condo just outside of Sydney, Australia. We’re not traveling and sight-seeing as much until we head to Asia in two months. We are, however, appreciating what Sydney has to offer, from the BridgeClimb of the Sydney Bridge with spectacular views, to the Aquarium that featured a Finding Nemo exhibition of all the fish in the movie, to the Blue Mountains with its waterfalls and Grand Canyon-like expanses, to the local beaches with beach volley ball, and the Sydney Harbor and its ferry rides.
We even braved the crowds at Sydney Harbor on Australia Day – which could be likened to America’s Fourth of July festivities. Faces were painted with patriotic flags, people were dressed in red, white and blue, and there was plenty of food and libation for all. Sounds like home? With hundreds of thousands of people on the boardwalks, piers and boats around us, it appeared that we are really very much alike.
Or are we?
As we go about our day-to-day activities, however, I find many differences as well, not better or worse, just different. At the grocery store I spend hours reading labels trying to discern products (we even tasted Vegemite, which as I understand it, one has to be genetically wired into liking the taste). Eggs are not refrigerated, simply stored on grocery store shelves. Diet Pepsi is called Pepsi Max. And there are many fewer choices of products.
Australians also seem to be more economical and environmentally aware. Items come in smaller packaging. At restaurants, bread is not available on tables, you have to order it; and portions are smaller.
The human body is celebrated more here in advertisements and in real life. Pregnant women wear tight-fitting clothing to show off their little miracle, not big tent shirts to hide it. But like home, lots of skin and tattoos are showing on young women.
Often, I feel opposite and upside down, and not because we are in the land down under. Driving on the left side takes as much concentration as when just learning to drive. On faucets, cold water is on the left and hot on the right. People walk and bike on the left sides of the paths. And let’s just forget about reprogramming my brain for metric. I’m just too old!
Sharing stories with “natives” is truly compelling. It’s interesting to find out how people live day to day and the types of activities we have in common. Many people find out about our culture through American-made movies and TV. For example, two university-aged girls asked us if American high school is really like in the movie Mean Girls. We try to explain the American experience in comparison to specific movies and TV they have asked us about. We also try to temper the exaggerations and stereotypes.
Marla's Journal 02/28/2005 - 22:32PM
Location: Australia
NW Herald Article #2 - Just Helping Friends and Family Catch Up on Recently Published Articles
Experiencing the World One Step at a Time

Our family set out to fulfill our wish of an adventure around the world. We didn’t want to simply stay on a tour bus and see the world; we wanted to experience it.
A few nights ago was by far the most exhilarating yet. Robin, Tricia, Grant Mitchell, a friend visiting from home, and I went for a marvelous climb. At twilight, we climbed to the top of the Sydney Harbor Bridge over cat walks and up ladders (3 ½ hours, 1439 steps, and 440 feet meters above sea level with a view of more than 30 miles in every direction. (Go to www.bridgeclimb.com for more information.)

We donned our BridgeClimb jumpsuits and harnesses and then were attached to the bridge’s safety cable. Our climb guide, Nick, entertained us with Sydney and bridge facts and trivia along the way.

The view was stunning and the self accomplishment was second only to the ropes course that Tricia and I went on last fall, which entailed that we be 40 feet in the air maneuvering an obstacle course.
We began our family journey at the end of December in New Zealand, where we sailed through the fiords, were sprayed by waterfalls, kayaked through rivers, took a helicopter up to a glacier mountain top, and watched whales, dolphins and seals (in their natural habitat). Then in Australia, we fed and petted kangaroos, horseback rode through the rain forest, snorkeled in the Great Barrier Reef, toured museums, visited Sydney Olympic Park, and climbed the Sydney Harbor Bridge. And that was our first month.

Sure we’re a bit tired, but exhilarated all the same. The delight comes from seeing new places, trying new experiences, and meeting people from around the world.
With each experience a new part of us is being unfolded and invented. For my family, going around the world was an option. For others it may be visiting a nearby museum, reading a great classic, or seeing an epic movie. Regardless, we continue to grow as we offer ourselves to fresh life experiences.

We’ll continue to experience the world one event at a time with – as they say in New Zealand and Australia – no worries.
Marla's Journal 02/27/2005 - 20:02PM
Location: Australia
Refrigeration
As many of you know our family loves sushi, fresh fish and seaweed, yum! But we haven’t yet found a sushi restaurant that is okay. When we head to the beach this
weekend or the city we’ll search one out. All of the ones we’ve found so far in small communities, malls and even in Brisbane and New Zealand, believe or not, had sushi that was not refrigerated. It may have been on a cool shelf, but that it not my interpretation of refrigeration. As I’m sure you’ve read in past journal entries, the eggs on the grocery store shelves are not refrigerated either.

Okay here are some more fun facts for you: the average number of eggs eaten by Australians each year: 137. Estimated number of Australians each year who suffer from food poisoning: 5.4 million.

Can you see where I’m going with this? One small step for refrigeration and one large step to decreasing food poisoning. Just a suggestion!
Marla's Journal 02/22/2005 - 19:39PM
Location: Australia
Here's a Northwest Herald article reprint for those who did not get a chance to read it when it was published. Article #1. xo
Northwest Herald article #1
Life On The Road: part 1
Marla Pendergrast


We raised this crazy idea and our family discussed it for many months: can our family of three take off for six months on a trip around the world? The significant questions arose: what about our daughter’s education, established businesses, family and friends, home and animals, and health and safety issues?
Then, I asked the most overwhelming question of them all: what do we pack?
When planning for this around-the-world adventure, we made lists and planned for over a year. We received sound backing from our daughter’s school. We rounded up support from some amazing family and friends and found a responsible house sitter.
But still, the lingering question remained: where do you begin when packing for a six-month holiday for a family of three? We packed what we thought would be sufficient for a journey of 29,000 miles and 15 countries.
After packing, stuffing, zipping and schlepping two, hefty (44 and 72 pounds respectively) suitcases, three rolling backpacks, laptop computer, camera bag, and knapsack to O’Hare I received the answer I was searching for all these months.
As I sat in the airplane between my daughter and husband, I had 25 hours to contemplate the answer. I knew that had I boarded the plane with simply the clothes that I had on and a toothbrush and a book in my pocket, it would have been enough. By then, it was too late to do anything about our choices.
Upon arrival in New Zealand, we left our heavy suitcases at a friend’s house so we could travel lightly around the island. (We plan to retrieve our luggage when we depart New Zealand.) We each took a few day’s worth of clothes and absolute essentials. After two weeks on the road, my conclusion is even more solidified than ever. We can live more simply without the baggage and excess and enjoy life’s experiences without worrying about what we need to stuff into our lives.
We have had enlightening conversations with diverse people from around the world. Finding out how others live and where their priorities lie coupled with traveling with only bare necessities embarrasses me about the materialism that has weighted us down. Not just at the airport, but for quite some time.
The ultimate question that I should have asked myself long ago was: how much is enough?

Marla's Journal 02/17/2005 - 21:09PM
Location: Australia
My summer vacation
A funny thing happened to me on the way to, well just about everywhere these days: the grocery store, the hair salon, driving down the street, the mall, the health club. Where do I begin?

My classes started last week. Tricia is not the only one who is going to school. I’m refreshing my high school French as well as taking a writing class. Maybe I can eventually join the two and write in French. If only…

My French teacher, Emille, has this Aussie accent that turns into a French nasal accent. Then there is me…oy vey, the one Emille referred to as the one with the American accent. C’est moi. The amusing thing about it is that my high school French really is coming back to me. I don’t think I could converse with Tula, my sister-in-law, yet or Pippi (her sister – hi Pip!) yet. But I sure can order dinner. It is about the food, isn’t it?

Okay, so we go to the Sydney Olympic Aquatic Centre for our physical fitness and swimming fun. I weighed myself on the scale...oh yea, it’s in kilos. Let me see now, 2.2 kilos per pound…oh this scale can’t be correct. And the kilojoules count on the food packages (I’m still flummoxed) lead me to believe that we’re eating five times the amount that we should. Is that why the scale is off?

Our kangaroo mite bites have completely vanished, in case anyone is interested. I guess I’ll have to finish my homework now.

A typical Brekkie, you ask? Well, Weet-Bix of course. Or a Vegemite sandwich. Which is confirmed by Jacquie, our new hairdresser (Robin got his head shaved, he only needs sun block up there now, no shampoo) that you certainly need to be born into liking Vegemite. But I will try it again. Maybe next time with more butta’ on the bread. The combo of peanut butter and jelly is also foreign here. Jelly is for biscuits at tea time.

So what about summer camp? US camps are recruiting Aussie teens to work in summer camps back home because they like the idea of having an authentic Aussie with an authentic accent being an authentic counselor. The irony is that summer camps here are pretty much non-existent. Summer breaks are over Christmas/Hanukkah/New Year/Chinese New Year/Kwanza (did I miss any?) holidays and is a family time. Plus, schools are out for summer break at that time for only 6 weeks. Not the absurd THREE MONTHS! There are two-week breaks around Easter and two other times but other than that school is in session.

I am really getting the hang of driving on the left side of the road now. I do much better when I am with myself, however, so no one else in the car can make me nervous. Vrrrooooom.

Fun facts: average dress size of an Aussie woman is 16 (but their sizes run different than ours. Tricia and I found this out when we went jeans shopping for her and shirt shopping for me. We both wear a size larger than at home. What about that scale and the kilo conversion?)

The number of Aussies aged 65 or more: 2.5 million. Current population is 20,267,509
This projection is based on the estimated resident population at 30 June 2004 and assumes growth since then of: one birth every 2 minutes and 5 seconds, one death every 3 minutes and 54 seconds, a net gain of one international migrant every 4 minutes and 8 seconds leading to an overall total population increase of one person every 2 minutes and 9 seconds. (Thanks to the Australian Bureau of Statistics).

And the big news is that the Thorpedo--Ian Thorpe--is kicking back for a year and not swimming in Montreal’s World championships, or anywhere for a year. He’s going to travel the world and chill before he has to start training for the Beijing Olympics. He cited that he recently went to the Super Bowl and celebrated New Years in New York. Even at that age one needs to get away from pressure and deadlines and see the world.

With love to all, especially, to Debbi and her family during this difficult time of her family’s loss.
Marla's Journal 02/02/2005 - 04:30AM
Location: Australia
Hello From Oz
A huge storm just blew through town. Tricia and I watched the stream of rain blow in, cover the Parammatta river below and the lightening in the distance. The gulls are now circling wildly for dinner.

Well, I’ve spent ht better part of two days searching out classes for myself. It was not a tall order, but by the time I found a college that was nearby, found directions to the college, searched the class offerings and registered…I ate six meals. And then trying to find a yoga class during the daytime was a task. All of the yoga studios are “in the city” of Sydney. We are 15 miles outside. But after letting my fingers do the walking and “ringing” 20 locations I found one right in our own backyard Dorothy. The Aquatic Centre at the Olympic Park (where local hero Ian Thorpe swam) has a fitness centre. Lucky me…it’s near enough to ride a bike to. Now, let me get my fingers walking to find a bike.

The Kangaroo Krud is completely gone on Tricia and I’m almost cured.

Reading the local paper is a hoot. Much about local cricket players’ hair styles, important issues of Britain proposing an 11 p.m. closing of their pubs. That was a doozy. According to the article, Aussies know they drink a lot like the Brits so they hope that issue never carries over here. Aussies solve the late night issue by going to pubs first and restaurants later.

There is a water shortage in Sydney. The dam is only 50 percent full. Maybe the buckets of rain from today will help.

Food shopping is a hoot. It takes me forever to read the labels and then I end up putting almost everything back after saying, “They put what ingredients in where?” It’s IMPOSSIBLE to find anything that is fat free. Low fat exists however. Meat. Milk. Animal fat. Yes, there are tofu and soy milk and health food stores. The eggs are not refrigerated at the grocery stores, so I cannot bring myself to buy them. People here in Oz have no worries from them, no salmonella, but still I cannot buy them. No Egg Beaters, of course. Turkey and chicken is gamier tasting, too.

Some items are so expensive, even converted to US currency. Toiletries, for example, face creams are 15-20 dollars, toothpaste is $4-5, peroxide $5 (for a small bottle – we better not cut ourselves anytime soon), Listerine (oy vey) is $10-$15. Produce however, is really reasonable. We drove by an organic store the other day. We’ll stop in to check it out.

Tricia started school yesterday. McDonald College is a K-12 school that encompasses academics and performing arts. Can someone open a school like that in America? It is so well rounded and its class offerings are extremely comprehensive. The uniforms are very conservative. Tricia wears a plaid dress or skirt with white shirt, white socks and black shoes. But no one seems to care. They know they are all cool regardless.


We rented a rent-a-wreck to get us around. Are you sitting down? A 1996 Ford Falcon. Yippee! It’s a Beast. Better that so we can afford groceries!

The rain stopped; I’m just waiting for a rainbow. Australia was a great choice for a wee rest.
Marla's Journal 01/30/2005 - 19:32PM
Location: Australia
The weather is nice...when you are in the water!
Hmm...what shall I tell you today?

Well, a few things. One is that they don't refrigerate their eggs here. It must not do anything because hundreds of Aussies don't have salmonella poisoning. I had a piece of bad turkey and I never feeling like eating turkey again. Both our showers malfunction: one has half a door and another sprays water everywhere. No joke, we didn't have to wave any wands to create a portable swamp.
My parents have decided that they packed far too much. I agree with them considering that I only needed one of the little suitcases to put my stuff in. After they finished we somehow had 7 suitcases and purses. I couldn¡¦t agree with them more.
As I understand it all of our friends are being bucketed down on by snow. Stay warm and hope that your heaters work. :-)

We've been keeping rather busy with cleaning and organizing here. The rug is a mess with all these stains. I suggested shampoo but the floor insisted that it had too short of hair and needed the special shampoo for curls. My mom sent the carpet to its room but since he was nailed to the ground his movement was limited.

A few days back we climbed the Sydney Bridge. For those of you who are wondering, it is a whole lot easier than it looks. All it is is walking. You stop every so often to rest and then keep walking. You go to the top, cross over and then go back now. No sweat. They even gave us hankies for those emotional moments; needless to say that we didn't need them. The Bridge Climb was amazing and if anyone wants to go to Sydney make sure you go up the Bridge. And make sure you look at the wall where ther are pictures of many of the stars who climbed it are hanging. There are people like Daniel Radcliffe (Harry Potter) Cate Blanchett, Nicole Kidman, Bruce Springstein, a bunch of athletes, The Duchess of York, Prince Harry and Will Smith. It is really fun and you get a picture of your own to keep.

I haven't seen any signs that say: Kangaroo Crossing or Koalas cross here. Or Last Donny for 976 kilometers 50 meters
I still can't find any dentist office AND can assure you that there is no kind of building that I have seen that is a dentist office that overlooks the harbor. I'm still looking. I also have not found P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney. Where are you going? P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney? I¡¦m going to P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney Yes that¡¦s right: P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney You didn¡¦t hear? P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney I¡¦m going to P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney Oh, I thought so, P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney and you are going to P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney? Right, let¡¦s find P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney. Well I dunno..where is P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney? Excuse me? Do you know P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney? I do cause, P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney is where I¡¦m going! That¡¦s where I¡¦¡¦m going!!! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! Yep, that¡¦s where I¡¦m going!!! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney. Oh you are going to P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney? P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney? P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney?! Yes! That¡¦s right! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney! P.Sherman 42 Wallabe Way Sydney!

Cheers!
Marla's Journal 01/29/2005 - 16:19PM
Location: Australia
The best view in town is from the top of The Sydney Bridge
Last night Robin, Tricia, and Grant, our friend from home (Northfield) and I went on a fantastic climb to the top of the Sydney Harbor Bridge. It was not your run-of-the mill hike. No, it was almost four hours of prep time, safety briefing, and climbing 1439 stairs.
When we entered the registration area we saw pictures of many of the celebrities who previously climbed the bridge…among them were Mary Kate & Ashley, Al & Tipper, Pierce Bronson, Nicole Kidman, and …Daniel Radcliffe. Happy face for Tricia.
We were met by helpful coordinators, filled out all appropriate paperwork, took a breathalyzer test (no drunks on the Bridge) put on our BridgeClimb BridgeSuits (NASA should take some lessons in regard to jumpsuit couture; these suits were cozy) and safety harnesses and met Nick, our trusty climb guide who oversaw our safety and told us facts and trivia about the Bridge and Sydney.
We thought the climb would be so much more difficult than it was. We didn’t even break a sweat or get winded once. It was an awesome stroll over the Harbor. Tricia strolled the bridge like it was a stroll in the park. And Robin snapped hundred of images from every perspective.
We went up at 5:30 p.m. so we were fortunate to see Sydney at sunset. C’est manifique! Cat walks and ladders, up and over. We’d do it again but there are so many other sites to see in Sydney and we only have three months.
The views, well, you can see for yourself in the image: they were amazing.
Robin’s knee needed some ice; but Dr. Messer and Dr. Palutsis would be proud of him.
Thanks to everyone at the BridgeClimb. It was a great night!
(Go to www.bridgeclimb.com for more info.) Anyone going to Sydney must add this to their list of things to do.

Marla's Journal 01/21/2005 - 00:58AM
Location: Australia
Calamine Lotion
So by now you've read Robin and Tricia's journals about our "kangaroo krud" as we affectionately call it. Tricia and I are on the mend from the allergic reaction to bites from mites from kangaroos. Did I make that up? I don't think so! Sounds like something you would tell your teacher so you wouldn't have to hand in your homework, doesn't it. Really, I swear, the mites were so little I didn't even see them...and when we woke up in the morning Tricia was full of rashes and then I got a rash too and then Tricia got a fever that she could not get rid of for two days...and then we went to the ER at Cairns Base Hospital...then we went to two more doctors and got more cortizone cream...looked for a Chemist got some more medications...and now it's blistery and and itchey and our arms are blotchy and it burns so much that at dinner we pour the glasses of water on our skin ..really I'll turn my homework in tomorrow...I swear!


Okay...any PG13 issues here, please turn away. I went into the Chemist's store (pharmacy) to get some calamine lotion for the itch and the chemist walked over to a LOCKED cabinet to get it out. HUH? The next day I was waitng for a script at the chemist and had to wait. On the open shelves there were five shelves of condoms --yes some motorized -- and Nicorette...but the Dramamine and the Calamine lotions were locked up. I swear I'll hand my homework in tomorrow.

Tricia and I have spent the last three days in Cairns at the mall. Two movies, three lunches, shopping and a lip-sync (to Beyonce and Usher and Outcast and Gwen Stefani music) dance performance. I really will get right on the homework thing just as soon as I can get the cabinet unlocked.

Tomorrow off to parasailing and the next day out to the Great Barrier Reef. Our pal. Grant Mitchell, is here with us...enjoying the amazing experiences with us in Oz.

G'day mates.





Marla's Journal 01/13/2005 - 22:06PM
Location: New Zealand
Pictures ...it's about time
My goal today is to upload new images...so no new jounal today. I'm sure Robin and Tricia will fill you in. We finally landed at a high-speed,Internet site that will allow a laptop plug-in. Yea! It is on the Christchurch Square overlooking the cathedral. I'm situated by an open window with a summer breeze blowing in. What a view!

G2G ...I'm off to be a photo fairy now.

Enjoy the images later.

Marla's Journal 01/10/2005 - 23:39PM
Location: New Zealand
A piece of heaven
Jan 8

I got it. 1.25 millions hectare is about 3 million acres. Bigger than the 100 Acre Woods, yes?

Words cannot do justice to the spender of the Milford Sound and the Fiords. Steep, jagged mountains, dense forests, and it has a billion (not kidding) evolutionary markings of our Earth’s history. A World Heritage Site, these unique characteristics boast a cool temperate rain forest...vines, climbing plants, water falls, fern trees, and lots of oohhs and ahhs from me. One of the wettest place in the world, Milford Sound average 6000 mm of rain per year.

We took and overnight boat journey on the Sound. Me with me a trans derma patch and Tricia with her Dramamine, and we did great; we were not sea sick at all.

Where do I begin? The Milford Sound is surrounded by glacial cut mountains, the water is pristine, and we saw Fur Seals and dolphins, a magnificent full rainbow and the food on board was delicious. (It’s about the food again, huh?) This is Heaven.

We met some interesting new friends Janette and Elwynn (great dinner conversation) from Australia and Ros and Kevin from Canada (lovely folks). I hope to see Elwynn play cricket in England (maybe even this trip) and visit Ros And Kevin’s retreat in Canada (but not this trip).

We went kayaking on the sound and snuggled in cozy bunks for the night. Tricia and I got top bunks, we had to fight Robin for them.

Okay we’re on a curvy mountain road right now, gotta focus out of the window ..or else.

Back at the Internet café…

After taking to non-Americans, it’s curious to find out how they view world travel. Grant it, I’m taking to people who are traveling, not those who are watching National Geographic. More later on that topic. Right now Robin and Tricia are pacing waiting for me. G2G
Marla's Journal 01/08/2005 - 17:27PM
Location: New Zealand
Enroute to the Fiords
Jan 7

Friday in NZ (Saturday back home)

I’ve decided that bus travel (as long as you get the front seat) is the way to voyage

We’re trekking through farm lands and countryside towards Fiordland National Park – which is 1.25 million hectares. Can anyone tell me what the heck is a hectare. We Americans are so is the dark. Totara trees can grow up to 800 years here as well as ferns and Menuca (Tee trees) and wild grasses and flowers. See Tricia’s journal for Totara tree facts so I won’t repeat them.

Natural Beech forests are absolutely stunning. These forests look how they did thousands of years ago…500-1000 years ago. All these lakes have been carved out by glaciers and have been filled in with water over the same thousands of years that these unbelievable trees have been grow in.

At a rest stop…Hi Alli and Jim. We just talked to you on the tellie. It was great to hear your voices.

So many names are called similar names as to what Americans know them, as but Kiwis add an “ie” ending for example, breakie, tellie, sunnies (sun glasses), Frosties (Frosted Flakes – not that I’m eating them –or canned lamb tongue for that matter) pasties (a food, for all you no-good- nick thinkers.

Rain averages 200 days per year near the Milford Fiord, therefore, it’s considered a cold temperate rain forest. 534 Meters above sea level now and than goodness we are not in avalanche season. Them there rocks in these here hills are real big… and who would have ever thought that sphagnum moss could be so pretty with its different colors and textures. (Tricia just pointed out that we just went over Kaka creek, thanks Tricia) And many diverse ferns are everywhere, (New Zealand’s national emblem is the Silver Fern (yes they are on all the tee shirts, hats mugs and shot glasses.

The Hollyford river is so clear, and just look at the Falls Creek water fall (the one Tricia and I are standing in front of –the image you will see in a few days). It’s getting cold up here (the mountains are 2 km above us).

Granite from 500 million years ago surround the river beds, Blocks of ice left over from avalanches from this past winter line the bottoms of the mountains. Line after line of temporary waterfalls grace the mountainsides, these are from melting ice and rain water. The weather is getting thick up her, rain, rain, rain and the mountans are getting socked in with thick clouds. These glacial-cut valleys are U shaped (as opposed to those cut by rivers that are Y shaped.)


Almost to the Fiords…see you later.
Marla's Journal 01/06/2005 - 16:53PM
Location: New Zealand
Sheep Shep and more sheep
Jan 6

Lake Wakatipu surrounds Queenstown and travels south toward Kingston. And here we sit in a bus traveling 110 km per hour admiriring the beauty and brilliance of the terrain. The Remarkables Mountain Range is on our left (east) and a world of endless wonder lies ahead. The Remarkables run directly north to south, one of the only ranges in the world to do so, (the Rockies is another). The water is deep, at some parts, up to a mile deep. Glistening like the opals that are native to these parts, the water provides adventure opportunities like boating and parasailing as well as simple splendor to the eye.

And sheep...holy lambkins, there are thousands of them dotting the countryside. Sheep provide for a grand bulk of the nation’s economy…coats, rugs, skins, meat, wool, (canned tounge…yikes!) and not to mention tchotchkes of sheep everywhere.

The native mountainside’s vegetation is very rocky with striking grasses, wild flowers and sheep. Power lines are above ground, which are not so bad since there are no billboards anywhere.

A quick stop for The Kingston Flyer steam train. You have got to see that image. (Coming soon to an high-powered Internet connection …I hope by this week end when we get back to Queenstown that a lot so images will be posted –what day is it today…can’t keep track anymore unless I’m reading a newspaper).


The Kingston Steamer, a steam train that used to be part of the New Zealand rail system, is now a “tourist” tran ride. It puffs and chugs and puffs and chugs and puffs and chugs. Through the mountains and yes, past the sheep. Roads were not widely put in in NZ until 1930s so the only way for quick transportation was the steam train to the steam boat – The Earnslaw – on Lake Wakatipu.

Did I tell you about all of the deer ? Oh yea, venison is a big market her as well.(Sorry Sammi!)
Now back to sheep counting, 66,743, 66,744, 66,755, 66,756, 66,757 ……………….
Marla's Journal 01/05/2005 - 03:06AM
Location: New Zealand
No wireless, but coping
The Kiwis really kow how to do many things great. For example, there are towel warmers everywhere and on/off switches on each outlet.

As I'm sure you know, the inevitable happened....a missed flight. We tried, really. Tricia and I went ahead to Queenstown so Robin could drop off the rental car. It gave us the oppoutunity to people watch for 2 extra hours.

I have to apologise for not uploading photos. There is no wireless Internet connection anywhere. In order to download images from our laptop to the website we need our laptop to be connected. At one point we found one Internet cafe with a plug-in capability (and, of course, it was a Starbucks).

I'm searching for a plug in and when I do, we'll send to you lots of beautiful images from Middle Earth.

Missing you...



Marla's Journal 01/01/2005 - 21:19PM
Location: New Zealand
Driving on th left
Jan 1

Happy New Year!

We’re having issues trying to find wireless Internet service, which would enable us to easily upload images to our website. It appears that dial-up is it.

After spending a restful two days at Cave Rock B&B (Thanks Gayle!) located on the ocean, and adjusting to jetlag, I think we’re finding a rhythm. We went to our friends Ellen and Mike’s for a wonderful dinner and many laughs. We drank L& P, a local Kiwi lemon beverage and tasted some local Kiwi sweet potatoes called kumara. It’s always about the food isn’t it?

Today on New Year’s Day we toodled around Christchurch…went for a punt on the Avon River, went to the Cathedral and the square. Robin and Tricia walked up the bell tower…156 steps. I, however, realized after the first 20 steps that claustrophobia and I would not make it up the constricted, winding, tight, windowless, airless, narrow, ancient, unyielding, stuffy, oppressive, stifling stairwell together and that one of us should walk up alone. I chose to let Claus go up without me.

On to Balleymoney Farmstay. Our hosts are Merrilies and Peter. We were greeted by Merrilies with a smile and a cabbage in hand. Our room is cheerful and bright painted in yellows and blues with fresh flowers from the garden. Spectacular gardens are everywhere. Rich and Wendy even you would be overwhelmed. Cows, sheep, pigs, pigeons, veggie gardens, flower gardens, geese and a donkey. And such pleasant hosts they are! We were invited for dinner and Robin really wanted to go, but they were serving lamb. Need I say more. So Merrilies kindly rang some local pubs to see what was open on New Year’s and off we went.

High five to me tonight! I completed without incident my very first ever driving experience on the left side of the road. I was very reluctant and still am. It was the back roads and without many cars around. Let’s see how I do on the roundabouts. Okay I’ll keep my eyes open.


Marla's Journal 12/30/2004 - 21:17PM
Location: New Zealand
Almost sent back...oops!
Dec 30

After a beautiful sunrise, we flew over the bridge and the Opera House on our landing into Sydney. A quick plane change and onto New Zealand. Tricia found an Internet kiosk and Robin found a mocha. Wait was that a “Pendergrast to gate 61” page I just heard? Yikes…crises averted. It seems as if the San Fran ticket agent did not properly process our paperwork Syd, the Air New Zealand ticket agent, to the rescue. If Syd did not process us at that point…they would have sent us and our snacks right back to San Fransisco. Thanks Syd.
Marla's Journal 12/30/2004 - 21:16PM
Location: New Zealand
Too much luggage
Dec 28

Sitting on the plane waiting for our O’Hare –San Fransisco flight to take off, I’m already thinking “TOO MUCH LUGGAGE.” David and Kassie were kind enough to take us to the airport. As David picked up the “big one” I knew it then. At the airport it was confirmed…72 pounds. And that was only one bag. So far it has been uneventful. One soy, mocha no whip and we’re off.

Oops, I’m wrong… a delay due to too much baggage. I’m sure it was because of us. They can’t pick up the “big one.” Here comes the crane to pick it up. Just kidding on that one. But not on the reason for the delay.

Okay, settling in and only 13 hours and 26 minutes to go. Eat, sleep, read, eat, sleep, eat sleep, read. I slept through the first meal; no big deal. Tricia tells me it was a salad. No problem, I brought along SNACKS! Oh yea, who is good?

The flight was routine until we were awaken with the lights being turned on and the oxygen masks dropping. I woke up Robin and Tricia was the first and only one of two people on board to put her mask on. Go Tricia! Nobody panic, someone on board mistakenly released them. Nice photo op though. Gayle and the flight crew were swell and they look stylish in oxygen bags, too! The flight crew were told not to repack them; due to some regulation. So there they hung. I took advantage of the new ornamentation and continued to periodically breathe in some extra O2.
Marla's Journal 12/24/2004 - 13:10PM
Location: McHenry, Illinois
12/24/2004 1:10 PM
Merry Christmas!!!
Marla's Journal 12/11/2004 - 06:53AM
Location: McHenry, Illinois
Fantastic experiences await.
And I thought my life was hectic before we began planning our journey! One year in the planning stage and we’re now in the home stretch with almost two weeks until our departure. Saying goodbye to friends and family has been difficult. With the ability of email and photo transmissions it will make it easier, especially to see all of the grandkids!

I’m glad that we’ve got the holidays as a cushion. There are many Hanukkah and Christmas family and friend get-togethers before we leave.

Tricia has one week left in school and she has even begun to clean out the dreaded locker…a chore that only occurs at the end of school in the summer. Work projects at the office are flowing over…who would ever have thought that it would be this busy in December? I have begun to pack and am almost finished. But which shoes to take; and how many? hmmmm?

Fantastic experiences await.
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